CPU Temperature and overclocking

mattymsboi · Posted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 11:11 pm

Too late to edit, right now I have my CPU at 2.4 Ghz, 200.66(BLCK) x 12(multiplier)

CPU-Z is telling me the CPU is using 1.336 V, i'm clueless as to why the CPU would require more power at a lesser frequency.

Temperatures are getting worse too, for a lesser frequency. Max temp atm is 63 with Prime 95. The left core seems to run hotter than the right core, I'm thinking its because theres 1 fan on the side that the 2nd core would be on.

I will look into attaching another fan and if that does not work well, I will consider a better cooler.

I still cannot figure out how to make the FSB:DRAM ratio to 1:1, CPU-z is telling me that ratio is currently 4:12

I've called ASUS and Intel, none wish to have any part in my over-clocking mission. I find it rediculous that they make their products over-clockable, yet they are not allowed to give you information regarding over-clocking.

I would be perfectly happy with a 333Mhz x 12 setup, giving me just under 4Ghz of CPU speed, with my RAM at its stock speed of 1333Mhz

Anyways if any1 can shed some light on this issue for me, I'd appreciate it.

-Matt

Rob Vanderkam · Posted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 11:27 pm

On my CPU, which is different than yours, I set the following in the BIOS:

1) 1800 FSB (Quad pumped number = 450 Bus Speed)
2) 900 DRAM (DDR2 -> 450x2), and 450:450 = 1:1
3) I tried to set my timings but gave up and just used auto.

I gave up because I couldn't run Prime95 at 4.275 GHz. Everything else works fine, including FSX, and the temps are fine, but i decided this wasn't good and have let the multiplier down to 9 and now it's at 4.05 GHz and Prime ran fine for a couple of hours.

I dont' know what BCLK is.

I set the cpu vCore to a high setting but not too high. As long as the temps are good, I'm not worried about it. I didn't want to go inching my way up. But once things have settled down, I may try inching down.

I had two kinds of problems during setting tests. One was frozen screen, which I heard was due to low vMem settings, so I found out that the board defaults to 1.8 but I needed at least 2.1 (and the Fatal1ty Ram is good to 2.2). The second was crashing to BSOD and rebooting. That seems to be a problem of timings. It stopped when I put everything on auto and let it relax from my 5-5-5-? to 5-6-6-17.

mattymsboi · Posted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 11:53 pm

BCLK is the block frequency, that I've increased by 10 and then tested every time. I'm pretty sure its the same thing that you're 450 number represents.

Also where your CPU-z says Rated FSB, mine says QPI Link, I don't have Rated FSB anywhere.

I will take a look in the BIOS and see if I can lower the DRAM frequency. EDIT: I'm in the BIOS and I cannot lower the DRAM frequency to any lower than DDR3-1200 MHz, thats the lowest option, the other 2 options are 1600 or 2000 mhz

-Matt

Edited By mattymsboi on 1285372700

mattymsboi · Posted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 10:52 pm

Sorry to keep posting but I keep having more questions as the more I seem to read, the more I think :p

I'm not having the best of luck finding solid guides to help me over-clock, I was using the 3 Step Guide from overclockers.com, which is for the new i3,i5,i7 CPU's, but my motherboard is a bit different BIOS wise. (P7H55-M Pro from ASUS).

Actually from all this reading I realized I even installed my RAM wrong :p, had them side by side, not separated, like Dual-Channel needs to be.

Anyways, I was wondering, would it be easier to just over-clock this way?: Keep the multiplier to auto, then keep the Bus speed set at something like 170 Mhz. My mobo has a program that monitors computer performance, like a laptop, I can set it to Performance, or 2 other power saving options, or keep it on Auto, which I do, which changes the bus speed and the multiplier to reduce CPU speed or increase it when neccessary. I was hoping that this program will still work if I only touch the bus speed, not the multiplier, as it did not work when I changed both.

I know people say using the multiplier is not truly over-clocking, but im more interested in whats best for the computer, and whats best for voltage and comp stability. I would be happier if the CPU didn't always run at an over-clocked speed like 4Ghz if I get it that high, I like the AUTO feature my mobo has. (This way the over-clocked CPU power will only kick in when needed, like running FSX)

The second question I have is, I'm thinking about returning my CPU fan that I bought, and purchase a better one. This one was the cooler master Hyper 101, with 2 copper contact heat pipes, with two fans on each side of the heat sink (came with 1 fan, I just added the other fan today, and it did not improve cooling at all). My CPU temp's are at around 56-57 max @ 100% load, @ stock speed (3.20Ghz). And in the mid-late 20's, early 30's with no load.

It might be good enough to get my CPU to 4 GHZ, but i'm wondering if I should go with something better, I will look into Peltier coolers like Robert suggested.

-Matt

Rob Vanderkam · Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 12:54 am

I can't really comment, Matt. What you're describing sounds really foreign to me. The i series of cores must work very differently from the other dual cores. I think I'd have to start reading all over again if I got one.

cva3906 · Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 4:43 am

As a side note, if you want to get better performance out of FSX with AI traffic, look into adding AI aircraft to FSX. Project AI and others such as that are a big improvement. Not only will you see real world aircraft now but by doing so, you are disabling the FSX AI which uses the actual models that you fly as AI aircraft.

Just this step alone with out overclocking will give you a huge improvement.

CVA0014 · Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 3:35 pm

mattymsboi wrote:

...

The second question I have is, I'm thinking about returning my CPU fan that I bought, and purchase a better one. This one was the cooler master Hyper 101, with 2 copper contact heat pipes, with two fans on each side of the heat sink (came with 1 fan, I just added the other fan today, and it did not improve cooling at all). My CPU temp's are at around 56-57 max @ 100% load, @ stock speed (3.20Ghz). And in the mid-late 20's, early 30's with no load.

It might be good enough to get my CPU to 4 GHZ, but i'm wondering if I should go with something better, I will look into Peltier coolers like Robert suggested.

-Matt

Just logging on to check up on things, been busy outside.

Your cooler is described as "2 x Direct Contact heat-pipes with aluminum fins for excellent heat dissipation". So it doesn't appear to be a peltier.

If you look at mine, it has a metal sandwich at the bottom with electric connectors (last pic):
http://www.legitreviews.com/article/491/1/

The heat pipes are above that and transfer the heat up to the fins. What makes peltiers attractice is that they can cool below room temperature. But like everything, you get what you pay for.

"The Ultra ChillTec Thermoelectric CPU Cooler is by far one of the best hybrid air coolers on the market today. If you are looking for an outstanding and high performing cooler without having to go to water, this is the cooler for you!"

Rob Vanderkam · Posted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 4:04 pm

Hey - very COOL! :;):

A heat pump. I'll keep that in mind. But my $600 used computer included a Zalman 9500 that works pretty well.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/2176/2

mattymsboi · Posted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 11:58 pm

Seems like all I needed to do was keep the multiplier up and my problems seem to have dissapeared. I'm currently testing with Prime95 @ 3.5Ghz (160 x 22) @ 1.152 V . Very pleased with the CPU so far, and max temp atm is 56 at 100% load. It also turns out that the FSB:DRAM ratio is already calculated depending on the bus frequency.

I know temperature shouldn't be an issue for my over-clocking goal of 4Ghz, but these coolermaster coolers look mighty tempting, idk if any1 has ever considered the V6 or V8 but they look very good, and are right in my budget range.

CoolerMaster V8

CoolerMaster V6

-Matt

CVA0014 · Posted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 1:37 pm

I was tempted with the V10 myself but decided to go all out with liquid cooling instead (as a first time project, gotta start somewhere).

The V10 has a peltier, not sure about the V8 though. One very important issue with these, they weigh a LOT and require more space than the usual coolers. Some forums mention that a peltier consumes a lot of power when it kicks in too, so you need a decent power supply.

Even my ChillTEC cooler is on the heavy side. I would have added a bracket if I hadn't decided to go with liquid. So for now I'm extra careful to not move my case.

Edited By CVA0014 on 1285853944

CPU Temperature and overclocking

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